What Ingredients Do Koreans Use In Their Skincare Instead of Retinol?

While not completely absent from Korean beauty, retinol doesn’t have the same hold over the Korean beauty industry as it does in the West.

There are several reasons for this, and we’ve discussed them at length in our Retinol blog. 

If not retinol, then what?

To go completely Carrie Bradshaw on you, I couldn’t help but wonder…if not retinol, then what? 

Collagen

Collagen is what keeps us looking young.

Plump, young, and firm skin is a result of high levels of collagen. As we age, our collagen levels begin to deplete and our skin loses elasticity. It also begins to thin and sag.

The rate at which our collagen levels deplete is about 1% every year after the age of 25. We know that can sound intense but, our advice?

Don’t stress about it! We all get old. It happens to literally everyone. Every. One. Your friends. Your colleagues. Your cousins. It’s always helpful to remember we aren’t alone, so there is no need to panic.

(Also, to put that into perspective, by the time you're 50 you’ve really only lost 22% of your collagen levels. Laughing!)

While applying topical collagen doesn’t have the intense anti-ageing benefits of Vitamin A and C, it is still great to pop into your skincare routine as it works to give the skin an instant hit of hydration.

Mature skin tends to be on the drier side and products containing collagen can help moisturise the skin and offer satisfying levels of hydration.

One of our favourite anti-ageing products containing collagen is Be Jelly Overnight Dream Serum. 

Vitamin C

Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant and anti-ageing ingredient. It is ideal for getting rid of pigmentation and dark spots, two commonly found conditions in ageing skins.

Not only does Vitamin C have antioxidant properties that work to repair and renew skin cells, it also resulting in glowing skin and a healthier complexion. For this reason, Korean skincare (much like western skincare) loves Vitamin C to stimulate the synthesis of collagen for tighter, firmer skin. 

Try:

1. IOPE Gluta Vitamin C Brightening Serum - 25% Pure Vitamin-C

2. Dr.Althea Vitamin C Boosting Serum

Niacinamide

Niacinamide and K-Beauty are a match made in heaven. A form of Vitamin B3, this ingredient has a host of benefits that include:

• brightening dull skin;
• reducing the appearance of fine lines;
• minimising wide pores; and
• calming acne-prone skin.

Our K-Beauty favourites featuring niacinamide (and a whole bunch of other anti-aging favs) are:

1.  Jelly Ko Bubble Tea Steam Cream; and
2. Jelly Ko Cherry Blossom Sleeping Mask.

Peptides

Peptides are short chains of amino acids that are the building blocks of collagen and elastin fibres in our skin.

Small Science Lesson: There are hundreds of different peptides but there are two that we want to look out for in our skincare. These are tetrapeptides and hexapeptides.

Both differ in their chemical structure and properties and therefore offer different results. Tetrapeptides boost elasticity and firmness, while hexapeptides offer brightening properties. Both are great, but if you want to target a specific anti-ageing issue it’s helpful to know the difference.

Try:

1. COSRX Peptide Collagen Booster 
2. LANEIGE Perfect Renew 3X Signature Serum: Retinol, Ceramide & Collagen-Peptide Complex for Anti-Wrinkle Care

Other Lesser-Known Ingredients 

Adenosine

Adenosine naturally occurs in the body as ATP (Adenosine Triphosphate) and is the storehouse for energy molecules.

When used in skincare, adenosine can help reduce the appearance of fine lines, stimulate collagen production, and soothe inflammation and damaged skin. That's why Korea's version of the FDA recognises it as an anti aging ingredient. 

One of our favourite Korean skin care products containing adenosine is White Truffle Souffle Serum.

Idebenone

Idebenone is a synthesized replica of Coenzyme Q10. Touted for its antioxidant properties, it also reduces the appearance of fine lines.

Skincare manufactures have been drawn to the ingredient because of its power as an antioxidant and free radical fighter. For this reason, it’s also great for sensitive skin.

Whilst a new player in the world of skincare, idebenone is considered safe to use.

Try:

1. APLB Idebenone Ampoule Serum

Glutathione

As it makes the leap out of the world of medicine and into beauty, you'll see more and more of this. One of the most potent antioxidants, Glutathione is a godsend both for our bodies and, now, our skin.

Apart from its ability to fight free radicals and oxidative stress, it has also been praised for its brightening properties and ability to combat pigmentation.

Try:

1. COSRX 2% Alpha Arbutin Glutathione 

EGF

Found naturally in the body, EGF, are proteins responsible for cell regeneration. Initially developed for the medical field, it was popularised by South Korean cosmeceutical brands, which claimed that EGF could advance the acne healing and promote collagen production. 

This remains one of the most popular ingredients you'll find being used in Korea's plastic surgery, hair transplant and dermatology clinics. 

Try:

1. Easydew DW-EGF Pressome Cream

TL:DR Retinol in Korean Skincare  

While some people find retinol to be the Holy Grail of skincare, for others it is simply too harsh or not practical to use. This is particularly so for those of us who spend lots of time in the sun or have weak, damaged skin. 

To learn more about Korean skincare's approach to retinol, take a listen to this episode of the Korean Beauty Show podcast:

To learn more about Korean skincare, or to chat about your own skincare routine, reach out to one of our lovely team members here at STYLE STORY.

We are always here to help and love nothing more than matching you with your perfect skincare companion.  

STYLE STORY - Your Go-To for K-Beauty Since 2014