In-Cosmetics Korea 2025: The Skincare Ingredients Everyone’s Talking About

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In this episode of The Korean Beauty Show, host Lauren Lee recaps everything you need to know from In-cosmetics Korea 2025. With booths packed full of buzzwords and big claims, this episode cuts through the noise to highlight the ingredients that actually matter; what’s science-backed, what’s innovative and what’s… well, just hype dressed up in a white lab coat.

What Was Hype vs What Was Real?

This year’s show had no shortage of big claims but not all of them held up under scrutiny. Some trends had clear clinical support, while others relied more on buzzy marketing than meaningful data. Here's how the biggest ingredient categories stacked up:

Spicules – Mostly Hype

Spicules were everywhere. Marketed as natural microneedling from marine sponges, they promise exfoliation and absorption boosts. I've spoken on the Show before about how Korea's MFDS has previously cracked down on Korean beauty brands falsely marketing these products as "microneedling in a bottle".

For me, as someone with extremely sensitive skin and diagnosed rosacea, the science is not robust enough and the irritation risk is not personally worth it. Take a look at what these look like under a microscope: 

Exosomes – Innovation, But Complicated

These stem-cell-derived vesicles are being positioned as the next-gen delivery system. But sourcing, regulation and long-term safety remain unknowns. The technology is real, the data is there to back up the use in injectables but it’s not as solid when it comes to topical skincare. 

Functional Oils – Real Utility

From green coffee and yuja to ginseng and Armorpheus, these oils offered more than just emollience. They were being used for antioxidant protection, inflammation reduction and even barrier repair. Legit and likely here to stay.

Vitamin K2 (MK-7) – Underrated and Backed

The “age killer” pitch might be dramatic, but the science supports the role of Vitamin K2 in vascular health, especially for under-eye use. Topical Vitamin K2 (when paired with other actives) could be a game-changer for dark circles and fragile skin.

Astaxanthin LQ – Potent, But Niche

Only one vendor we saw was showcasing this, but its antioxidant capacity is real. However, it’s expensive, stains formulas and isn't the easiest to formulate with. Its more likely we'll see prestige / luxury brands doing more with this ingredient than those at the mass end of the market. 

Collagen & Inner Beauty – Some Truth, Some Fluff

Hydrolyzed ingestible collagen? Yes, the science supports its benefits for skin when clinically dosed. Vegan collagen and topicals? Mostly hydrating. The marketing is outpacing the clinical results here, especially at the booths pushing collagen drinks with zero ingredient traceability.

Liposomes – Quietly Essential

Not flashy, but totally foundational. Liposomes are still one of the best delivery systems in skincare and Korean vendors are advancing the tech with plant-based vesicles and even DIY vesicle kits. 100% staying power here.

Next-Gen UV Filters – Real Innovation

This was one of the most exciting areas at the show. Korean brands are microencapsulating UV filters and pairing them with DNA-repair enzymes to create smarter, more skin-friendly sunscreens. 

Why This Matters for Brands

At STYLE STORY, our consultancy works with beauty and biotech brands across the globe who are navigating exactly this space, trying to figure out which of these ingredients to bet on, which ones to skip and how to translate raw tech into skincare that actually performs. If you’re in that boat, you know where to find us - we'd love to work with you. 

Wrap-Up: In-Cosmetics Korea 2025: The Skincare Ingredients Everyone’s Talking About

In-cosmetics Korea 2025 gave us more than just flashy packaging and influencer-ready claims—it gave us a look into the future of skincare. A future where delivery systems are getting smarter, ingestibles and topicals are converging and brands are (finally) being asked to back up their buzz with science. Some of it was hype. Some of it was legit. The key is knowing which is which.

And that’s what we’re here for! 

Which ingredient are you most excited about? Let us know in the comments!