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May 01, 2025
Sunscreen Panic, Innisfree’s Downfall & a Legal Win for Beauty of Joseon
The Korean beauty industry is buzzing with major developments - from government-backed investments to consumer panic over sunscreen. In this week’s K-Beauty news roundup, we’re covering the biggest stories shaping the future of Korean skincare.
Whether you're a beauty entrepreneur, skincare lover, or K-Beauty fan, let's take a look at what's shaking in Korean beauty.
The South Korean government has unveiled a ₩40 billion fund (approximately USD $27 million) in partnership with leading beauty manufacturers including Cosmax and Kolmar Korea. This strategic initiative aims to shield the K-Beauty industry from global economic uncertainty and shifting trade dynamics.
The fund will focus on:
Why it matters: Smaller indie brands - those without conglomerate backing - are most vulnerable to tariff hikes and disrupted supply chains. This fund signals a commitment to innovation, self-reliance, and sustained international growth for Korean cosmetics.
Sources: Ministry of SMEs
With talks of 25% import tariffs looming, US consumers are hoarding Korean sunscreens - some purchasing 10+ tubes of their favorite SPFs. Reddit, TikTok, and Amazon reviews are filled with concerns about rising prices and potential shortages.
So, why the obsession with Korean sunscreens?
With tariffs possibly affecting prices, many shoppers are building a stockpile of their holy grail K-Beauty SPF. It’s another sign of how strongly Korean sun care has resonated with global consumers.
Source: Washington Post, Cosmetics Design
ODM giant Cosmax, known for manufacturing products for hundreds of beauty brands, launched its own direct-to-consumer label 3WAAU back in 2023. It's starting to become a problem for some in the industry.
Why it’s controversial:
Some argue vertical integration is the future of beauty manufacturing. Others believe it blurs lines of trust between ODMs and their brand partners. Either way, it marks a bold shift in the K-Beauty business model.
Source: "네가 화장품까지 파는 건...좀 아니지 않니?" 코스맥스의 행보
Once a leader in the global K-Beauty boom, Innisfree has seen a sharp 84.15% drop in operating profit. Following a major rebrand in 2023 - trading its signature earthy identity linked to Jeju Island for a modern green aesthetic - the brand is struggling to regain traction.
What went wrong? Well, according to customers a lot. The main complaints seem to be:
Consumers are shifting toward clean, high-performance skincare with strong brand storytelling. Without its original charm and value-based focus, Innisfree risks becoming irrelevant.
Source: 서울경제 TV
In positive news for indie Korean skincare brands, Beauty of Joseon successfully defended its trademark in India. After discovering a third-party had preemptively registered a near-identical trademark without real usage, the brand filed a rectification petition.
The court ruled in favor of Beauty of Joseon, officially cancelling the fraudulent registration.
This win underscores the importance of global trademark protection for Korean beauty brands expanding into markets like India. For indie labels, it's a reminder to register trademarks early when scaling internationally.
Source: JP Associates
This week, a listener reached out after reacting to a product that compromised her skin barrier. She was using Illiyoon Ato Ceramide Moisturiser, but found it lacked sufficient hydration.
Here are some K-Beauty moisturizers I recommended for dry, sensitive or damaged skin:
Jelly Ko Bubble Tea Steam Cream – deeply hydrating, barrier-supporting, and lightweight
Zeroid Intensive Cream MD – a dermatologist-favorite from Korea’s medical skincare category
Atopalm MLE Cream – ideal for kids or extra-sensitive skin
Avene Cicalfate (as a sealant over your usual moisturiser, not on its own)
Here’s my latest product breakdown:
One Must: COSRX The Vitamin C 23 Serum
One Meh: Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Pore Mask
One Miss: Dr. Althea Pure Grinding Cleansing Balm
The worst?
The best?
We can’t wait to connect with our customers across the UAE and GCC and share our fun but functional approach to K-Beauty.
Beyond running Jelly Ko, I also lead a K-Beauty consultancy through my first business, STYLE STORY. If you're a founder, spa owner, retailer, or beauty entrepreneur wanting to tap into Korean skincare, we can help.
Our services include:
Whether you're building a brand or scaling one globally, we offer guidance rooted in real industry experience. We'e saved our clients tens of thousands of dollars and expensive mistakes with our valuable insights. Learn more here.
From government funding and sunscreen hoarding to industry shake-ups and brand missteps, K-Beauty is evolving fast. But the core of its global appeal—innovation, ingredient-first formulas, and sensorial experiences—remains stronger than ever.
Your turn:
Join the conversation in our Facebook group The Korean Beauty Show Podcast Chat or DM me on Instagram @lauren_kbeauty.
Until next time, stay curious, stay hydrated, and keep your SPF within reach!
STYLE STORY - Your Go-To for Kbeauty Since 2014
“Innisfree’s downfall shows what happens when a brand trades its roots for reinvention—without bringing its loyal customers along for the ride.”
Lauren Lee, K-Beauty Expert
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