Korean Beauty Vitamin C Serums - Ep-46 

Episode Title: Korean Beauty Vitamin C Serums Ep-46 

Episode Description: 

Western beauty has plenty of hero Vitamin C Serums with hefty price tags to match. On this episode, we're taking a look at the best Korean Beauty Vitamin C serums on the market and how they differ to products you might be more familiar with. 

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Episode Summary:

Why use Vitamin C?

Vitamin C serums have long been one of the key steps in beauty routines. Thanks to their antioxidant rich, free-radical fighting properties they are a staple in many skincare routines around the world.  

Benefits of Vitamin C Serums 

Serums containing Vitamin C may help to:

1. Firstly, increase moisture retention and hydration;
2. Secondly, improve active breakouts;
3. Thirdly, assist damaged skin cells;
4. Fourthly, fight free radicals;
5. Fifthly, brighten dull skin;
6. Sixthly, target pigmentation and dark spots;
7. Seventhly, assist with sun damage and acne scarring; and
8. Finally, boost collagen production.

Stronger, plumper and more even toned skin?  Sign me up.  

How To Use Vitamin C?

As a general rule of thumb, serums are the best skincare delivery vehicle for Vitamin C. In terms of your skincare routine, serums come before moisturisers. Although Vitamin C can be used both morning and night, there are a few things to keep in mind to help get the most out of using your Vitamin C serum.

1 Firstly, when starting out, introduce Vitamin C to your routine slowly. Start off with twice a week maximum and build up to more regular use.

2 If you use retinols at night, use your Vitamin C serum in the morning to avoid interaction.

3 When using skincare acids (eg. AHAs, BHAs) or if have dry or sensitive skin, consider using Vitamin C at a different time of the day.

4 For optimal use, store Vitamin C serums in the fridge to delay oxidisation. After opening, serums containing pure Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) begin oxidising after 3 months, reducing their effectiveness.

5 The effectiveness of pure Vitamin C is pH dependent. If your skin’s pH is too high or low, this will make Vitamin C less effective.  To avoid this, use Vitamin C directly after cleansing and wait 20-30 minutes before the next step in your skincare routine.  If you’re looking to save time, use a pH adjusting toner right after cleansing.

My favourite Vitamin C Serums

For all skin types and ages

Tosowoong’s Spot Whitening Vitamin C Serum is a great way to introduce Vitamin C into your routine. This serum combines Vitamin C from multiple sources, with anti-aging peptides, antioxidants and more, making it ideal for minimising the effects of damage on the skin.

2023 Update: This serum has now been discontinued. As a replacement, we would suggest Jumiso All Day Vitamin Brightening & Balancing Facial Serum (30ml)

For Sensitive Skin 

APLB’s Vitamin C Ampoule Serum is perfect. Not only is it made with a low dose of pure L-Ascorbic Acid, making it a non-irritating option for sensitive skin, it also includes brightening niacinamide. In addition, the formula contains sea buckthorn to help to create a more vibrant complexion free from unevenness.

For Pigmentation 

Purito’s Pure Vitamin C Serum is a game changer!  Combining 5% pure Vitamin C with Hyaluronic Acid and Adenosine, this cruelty-free serum promotes even skin tone. It also protects your skin from environmental damage.

Fragrance-free

SOME BY MI’s Galactomyces Pure Vitamin C Glow Serum is a good one to consider. Not only does it helps exfoliate dull and even skin tone it also firms up skin for long-lasting lustre.  In addition, it also works to improve skin texture, and can reduce dryness and flaking by up to 85.94% after use.

Vitamin C Derivative Option

Thanks to its unstable profile, pure L-Ascorbic Acid is not for everyone. If you’re looking to avoid the issues with oxidisation with pure Vitamin C, then try Neogen Real Vita C Serum. This serum is made with Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP), a stable form of Vitamin C that protects skin from oxidative damage. Unlike L-Ascorbic Acid, it is more stable when exposed to light and air, meaning your serum will last for longer.

Fruit Based Vitamin C

For an option featuring Vitamin C derived from fruit, try SOME BY MI’s Yuja Serum. Because it is formulated with Korean Yuja extract, it doesn't have a lot of the same problem with oxidisation as other serums. In addition, it also includes niacinamide for brightening. Finally, it contains glutathione, which restores dull and stressed skin.  

Why I Don’t Recommend Vitamin C Powders

Some K-Beauty brands have released Vitamin C powders. I think this is an attempt to get around the difficulties with the instability associated with pure L-Ascorbic Acid in a pre-formulated serum. However, in my opinion, these are probably worth skipping. 

First, it can be tricky to get the right pH levels, because it needs to be around 3.0 to absorb. This can cause some irritation when it comes into contact with skin. Secondly, another problem is that the vitamin C can crystalize on the skin before it ever penetrates for any beneficial effects.

All things considered, I think it's better to go with the pre-mixed options unless you really know what you’re doing. 

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