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How to Layer Skincare Acids

April 13, 2021

How to Layer Skincare Acids

How to Layer Skincare Acids

Episode Title: How to Layer Skincare Acids Ep-49

Episode Description:

If done properly, exfoliating can be a powerful tool in your skincare routine to help prevent acne and keep skin and pores clean and smooth. But it’s easy to go wrong when using acids, especially when layering them in your skincare.

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Episode Summary

Here’s how to layer acids in your skincare routine for maximum results.

The Two Types of Exfoliators

Skincare exfoliators fall into two main categories – manual and chemical.

While manual exfoliants used to be all the rage (think St Ives Apricot Scrub), they’ve taken a back seat thanks to the popularity of chemical exfoliants – AHAs, BHAs and PHAs.

Today, let’s focus on exfoliants of the chemical variety, which can be trickier to work into your routine because they are pH dependent and come in a variety of strengths.

How to Layer Skincare Acids

Intro to Acids

Acids are the big guns of skincare – designed to treat blackheads, breakouts, pigmentation and blocked pores. Skincare-friendly acids are classed into two main categories: AHAs and BHAs.

AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids)
AHAs exfoliate the outer layer of skin, removing dead skin to uncover the fresh stuff. They help brighten the skin for a clearer, more refined complexion.

BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids)
BHAs are oil soluble and exfoliate at a deeper level, making them excellent for keeping pores clear and protecting from breakouts.

Can I Use BHAs and AHAs Together?

Yes, but not for everyone. Combining them can cause irritation, so if you are prone to dryness or redness, stick to one.

If you have oily skin, combining BHAs and AHAs may be safe and even beneficial.

Think of layering acids like double cleansing – start with your oil-soluble BHA first, then move onto your AHA.

How to Layer Skincare Acids

Can I Use an AHA/BHA with Vitamin C?

No. Vitamin C has an exfoliating effect, so mixing it with acids can cause irritation and reduce its effectiveness.

Can I Combine AHA/BHA with Retinols?

No. Using these together can cause serious irritation if layered in the same routine.

Can I Combine AHA/BHA with Hyaluronic Acid?

Yes! Hyaluronic acid doesn’t exfoliate the skin; it hydrates and supports the barrier. It’s ideal for use after exfoliating acids.

Hydration makes acids behave

Acids do their best work when your barrier is cushioned and hydrated. If your skin feels tight or looks dull after exfoliation, it doesn’t mean you should add more acid. Instead, it usually means more water and a little support.

How I like to layer it:
  1. Apply your acid on clean, dry skin. Let it settle.
  2. Mist or pat on a hydrating toner. Skin should feel damp, not wet.
  3. Add a serum that comforts and smooths the look of fine lines.
  4. Seal with a moisturiser that holds water in. If you are dry, finish with a little occlusive where needed.
Why this works: Hydration limits the dryness and irritation that can appear when you use acids. It keeps your skin bouncy, calm and even. Comfortable skin is consistent skin.

Hydration helpers I reach for:

Jelly Ko White Truffle Soufflé Serum

Jelly Ko White Truffle Soufflé Serum

Soft hydration with a smooth, even look. Plays nicely after acids and is perfect for skin cycling generally.

Shop Serum
Jelly Ko Cherry Blossom Sleeping Mask

Jelly Ko Cherry Blossom Sleeping Mask

Pillow-soft moisture for overnight bounce. Great on acid nights.

Shop Mask
Jelly Ko Be Jelly Overnight Dream Serum

Jelly Ko Be Jelly Overnight Dream Serum

Gentle glow and cushion. Nice when you want radiance without fuss.

Shop Be Jelly
Jelly Ko Bubble Tea Steam Cream

Jelly Ko Bubble Tea Steam Cream

Comforting cream that locks hydration in. Ideal after actives.

Shop Moisturiser

Can I Use More Than One Product That Has a BHA/AHA In It?

Yes, but it’s not necessary. If you already have a toner and a serum containing acids, alternate them instead of layering. Overdoing it can lead to irritation.

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"If you aren’t familiar with acids, these are the big guns of skincare – designed to treat a variety of common skin complaints like blackheads, whiteheads, breakouts, hyper-pigmentation and blocked pores."

- Lauren Lee, Host of the Korean Beauty Show podcast

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