Fermented Skincare in Korean Beauty 

Fermented skincare is more than just a passing fad in K-Beauty - it’s a tradition! If you’ve been curious about the hows or whys behind the use of fermented ingredients in Korean skincare, then you won’t want to miss this episode. 

 

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Why Fermented Skincare?

With a history stretching back to the Joseon Dynasty, fermented ingredients have been used in Korean skincare forhundreds of years. Known for their ability to target everything from inflammation to a weak skin barrier, fermented ingredients are in some of K-Beauty’s best loved products. 

 

What is Fermented Skincare?

Fermentation is a process during which ingredients are broken down into smaller molecules. Think of it as a series of reactions that convert sugars to other substances (i.e. grapes to wine, one of our favs!) Fermentation is also the process behind Korea’s staple food, kimchi (which is a type of fermented cabbage).

Because fermentation breaks ingredients into smaller molecules, the skin is able to more easily and effectively absorb them. Popular K-Beauty ferments include fruits, herbs, rose flowers and yeast.

 

What are the Benefits of Fermentation?

Fermented skincare offers several benefits:

• First, the fermentation process assists the ingredients to be better absorbed by the skin; 
• Second, it reduces the risk of irritation. This is because fermentation neutralizes toxic substances like metals and pesticides, which are found in raw ingredients. The fermentation process also skips preservatives, which is good for those suffering from irritated skin.
• Third, fermentation increases the nutrient density of the ingredients, making the product’s natural ingredients more powerful.
• Finally, fermented products are loaded with natural antioxidants and anti-inflammatories. This can assist in increasing the natural turnover rate of skin cells, which in turn aids to slow the ageing process.

That’s not to say that there aren’t plenty of other ingredients out there that function similarly to ferments. However, some ingredients do have more powerful benefits when fermented compared to their unfermented counterparts. Since fermentation in Korean foods is such an important part of the Korean culture and diet, it makes sense that many brands turned their hands to fermenting skincare ingredients too. 

 

Commonly Fermented Ingredients

Bifida ferment lysate - a gut bacteria that strengthens the immune system, reduces sensitivity and helps the skin repair itself. 

Fermented rice water - promotes a radiant and bright complexion. Rice water is rich in minerals, antioxidants, and vitamins, which boosts cells and keeps skin bright and smooth.

Pitera - a probiotic that helps to rejuvenate, clarify and smoothen skin. 

Galactomyces - a fungus that helps reduce blackheads, sebum, dead skin and acne. In addition, it minimizes the appearance of pores and brightens skin tone. 

Fermented black soybean - rich in omega acids, it hydrates and helps with the appearance of wrinkles.

Fermented rice bran- the waste in the rice polishing process, which turns brown rice to polished white rice. It mainly consists of yellowish outer layers of pericarp, seed-coat and part of germ. Studies show that it has good brightening effects in high concentrations. 

Fermented starch - pullalan is a common fermentet starch. It functions as a skin conditioning agent. 

You’ll also see other ingredients like yoghurt, ginseng, flower extracts and snail. 

 

Who Shouldn’t Use Ferments

Some people suffer from a sensitivity to fermented ingredients. Many people with fungal acne also report negative side effects when using products containing fermented ingredients. 

Symptoms to look out for include:

1. Firstly, blemishes that present as small comedones, commonly around the T-zone, but sometimes around the U-zone.
2. Secondly, Bumps that are painful and itchy, and resist traditional acne treatments. 

This occurs because fungi such as galactomyces trigger an increased activity of a protein in humans. This is linked to certain skin diseases, making fungal acne worse. If you do think you may have fungal acne, or are curious to learn more about it, take a listen back atEpisode 27. 

K-Beauty Products Containing Ferments to Try Out 

While some brands dedicate their whole lines to fermented ingredients, there are a few extremely famous fermented K-Beauty products that can’t be ignored. They are:

Benton Fermentation Eye Cream is packed full of skin-friendly fermented ingredients and ceramides. It gently cares for delicate under-eye skin while also realising anti-aging benefits.

Missha Time Revolution First Treatment Essence contains 90% fermented yeast concentrate. It not only absorbs into skin to energize, sooth, smooth and balance but can also revitalize it.

COSRX’s Galactomyces 95 Tone Balancing Essencecontains 95% galactomyces ferment filtrate.

Missha Time Revolution Night Repair PROBIO Ampoule contains 10 types of Lactobacillus with different effects. These ingredients not only moisturise the skin but also improve elasticity. This is because they provide energy to problematic skin areas. In addition, the ampoule works to improve skin’s basic strength, density, moisture, balance, skin tone and elasticity. Missha uses a “cool warm double fermentation” method for their product. 

 

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