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Can beauty products exist independently of beauty standards?
On episode 245 of the Korean Beauty Show, we’re covering Korea’s domestic cosmetics market reaching new heights, the top trends at Cosmoprof Asia, the small dose cosmetics trend and how social media created the beauty industry’s newest dialect. Plus, Lauren answers a listener’s question about beauty standards, and shares her recommendation for some Korean makeup cushions to try, plus a selection of K-Beauty products for babies and kids.
Korea's domestic cosmetics market reached 17 trillion won (over $12 billion USD) at the end of 2023, the largest ever. This year is also expected to break a new record. Due to the increase in competition, companies are trying to stand out using exotic packaging, unique textures, and two-in-one products with multifunctional skin care products.
Products that add creative ideas to excellent functionality have become an important factor in highlighting a brand's personality while delivering pleasure to consumers.
Source: 메일경제피부가 즐거운 K뷰티? 눈이 더 즐거워요!
The top five trends dominating this year's Cosmoprof, one of the largest beauty expos in Asia, were:
Eternal youth
Dr A.I
Suncare
The Return of Blush
Acne Care
Source:Beauty Streams
Cosmetics packaged in small doses are selling like hot cakes in Korea. Rather than full size packaging small dose cosmetics are seen to have the advantage of being cleaner to use and those in their teens and twenties can try more diverse products at the same price.
In the past, smaller cosmetics mainly consisted of travel kits, but recently everything from face washes to makeup has been miniaturised.
According to one retailer, sales of powder wash products increased 55.8% year-on-year until last month this year. Powder wash is individually packaged and bubbles are generated when it comes into contact with water.
Small color cosmetics are also attractive among people in their teens and twenties as they can be purchased in a variety of colors at low prices.
Source: 서울경제 "세안제부터 색조까지…10대에 잘 먹힌 소용량 화장품"
This was an interview I did with Media Cat Magazine in the UK. It explored how the relationship between beauty products and beauty standards has evolved beyond simple cause and effect — it’s now mediated through social media’s distinct languages, reshaping how beauty is defined and democratised.
Journalist Ava Asaadi noted:
I spoke to her about the differences between trending beauty keywords in the US and Korea. The article covered the way that beauty diverges on the different social media platforms and how they each have developed their own culture and vernacular. Then there are also trends that transcend globally, like ‘glass skin’.
Glass skin started out as a Korean beauty term describing skin so smooth, clear, and luminous it resembles a pane of glass. It took on a life of its own overseas and now everything from makeup releases to skincare are geared towards giving people a glass-like complexion.
Source: Media Cat Magazine: How Social Media Created Beauty’s New Dialect
Can beauty products exist independently of beauty standards, and how do you see this dynamic playing out differently between Korean and Western beauty markets?
The types of beauty products that exist in every country and market are inherently linked to the beauty standards and ideals of that place. You can see this play out really clearly when you compare the top trending keywords for beauty products in Korea versus a western market like the US.
Whereas in the US right now the top trending beauty keywords focus on goals like “youthful” and “Elastic”, as well as targeted functions like wrinkles, irritated skin and collagen, in Korea the top-trending keywords are around the well-being of the skin itself. They focus on prevention, protection, soothing and hydration.
Similarly, there are entire categories of cosmetics that just don’t exist in other markets; take fan tan, which is popular in places like the UK and Australia versus “tone-up” or “skin whitening” cosmetics, which are popular in Korea. Whereas fake tanning has become a safe alternative to give those with pale skin the “sun-kissed” glow that is popular in many western countries, in Korea and other Eastern Asian countries the beauty ideal is one of pale skin. This has deep roots in the country dating back to the Joseon Dynasty, where women from wealthy families were able to stay at home and out of the sun whereas their poorer counterparts were at work in the fields. Paler skin became synonymous with wealth and this beauty ideal has endured for centuries.
Products Mentioned:
Age20s Essence Cover Pact Crystal Shining Drop Edition is one of my personal favourite BB Cushions. The pact is not only adorable but the formula is an excellent fit for dry skin.
The only downside (and it’s a big one!) is the shade range. This is a classic Korean range of shades from light to medium beige. I always hesitate to recommend products like this because I’m aware they won’t work for a lot of people. However, I'm also of the opinion that if more people overseas try the products we can encourage the brands to create a wider range of shades if there’s enough demand. We’ve certainly seen this with other brands and I think it’s a shame if one of the best ranges in Korea only stays in the local market.
I got the white latte variation; there is also a pink latte variation. It also comes with a refill which is great.
Age20s Signature Essence Cover Pact Intense is another hit. I really love the look it gives my skin and it’s also slightly darker in colour which makes me look less washed out than other formulas. This on comes with a refill as well.
Now a word of caution - This is supposed to be the "most high coverage" option. If you’re expecting a western level of high coverage you will undoubtedly be disappointed but for me it strikes a good balance, especially when combined with a good concealer. The Dasique Pro Concealer Palette works really well in tandem with this.
This BB cushion also comes in slightly more shades - there are 6 from 13 to 31.
Atopalm is a Korean beauty brand specifically formulated for dry and sensitive skin. It can be used by those with atopic dermatitis, hence the name ato-palm. It is owned by Neopharm, who also makes Zeroid.
Atopalm makes a great range for babies and kids:
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All products recommended on the Korean Beauty Show podcast are personally selected by us. Some of our Show Notes include affiliate links. If you buy something through one of these links we may earn an affiliate commission. This helps offset the costs associated with producing the podcast.
“Cosmetics packaged in small doses are selling like hot cakes in Korea. Rather than full size packaging small dose cosmetics are seen to have the advantage of being cleaner to use and those in their teens and twenties can try more diverse products at the same price.”
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