Korean Researchers Identify a New Brightening Ingredient
October 13, 2023
Korean Researchers Identify a New Brightening Ingredient
On episode 221 of the Korean Beauty Show podcast, Lauren discusses the latest from Korean researchers, who have identified a promising new brightening ingredient. Plus, 3 of the nation’s leading manufacturers are in a race to capture the global sun care market. We have new releases from Goodal and Beauty of Joseon and customers review their favourite products from Heimish, Subi, Jelly Ko and APLB.
Korean Researchers Identify Another Potential Skin Brightening Ingredient
The Rural Development Administration revealed that “Doraji” 도라지 (aka Platycodon grandiflorum), which is sometimes also referred to as "balloon flower" or "bellflower" has a brightening effect on skin.
This ingredient has been used in traditional medicine since ancient times and is known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
In the past, Korea’s National Institute of Horticultural Science discovered that processed balloon flower could protect skin damaged by ultraviolet rays.
This time, research was carried out to present scientific standards in the hopes that the ingredient can eventually be used as a functional cosmetic material. They steamed the raw ingredient for four hours at 90-95 degrees (℃) and dried it at 30 degrees for one to three times. The results of testing revealed skin brightening effects. In particular, they noted:
“The melanin production inhibition rate of balloon flower extract that has been matured three times was 46.6%, which was about twice as high as raw balloon flower.”
This is higher than the melanin synthesis inhibition rate (21.1%) of kojic acid, which is also a well-known brightening ingredient.
So far, this study was only been done on rats.
The Rural Development Administration published the results of the study in a domestic academic journal related to cosmetics. In the future, if functional cosmetics are developed using this ingredient, it is expected to contribute to an increased industrial demand for balloon flower.
Source: Jangup Newspaper (http://www.jangup.com )
Korea's leading cosmetics manufacturers are targeting the global market with their sun care technology
The three leading cosmetics manufacturers in Korea producing sunscreens at a global scale are Kolmar Korea, Cosmax and Cosmecca.
According to a survey by Research &Market, the global sun care market is forecast to grow 8.7% annually by 2030.
All three manufacturers have different plans to capture the market:
Kolmar Korea currently boasts a market share of nearly 70% of Korea's sun care market
Sunscreen sales accounted for 31% of the second quarter's performance in 2023
It has obtained 50 sun care patents
Cosmax recently developed a new sunscreen formulation called "Capsule Sun"
This evenly injects oil components in the form of large particles into the aqueous phase without the use of emulsifiers.
The oil phase is then applied in the form of a visible capsule to make the formula better for people who prefer light, transparent sunscreens
Cosmax have completed a technical patent for the capsule line.
Cosmecca Korea
Cosmecca is somewhat of a latecomer in the sun care sector but is now more active in the market
The head of Cosmecca thinks that inorganic sunscreens are likely to grow, so they are focusing on that.
Beauty of Joseon's latest release, their Vitamin C serum skips out on pure L-Ascorbic Acid in favour of 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, a Vitamin C derivative
10% of this derivative assists with brightening benefits.
In addition, 68% Centella asiatica extract calms and rejuvenates the skin.
Absolutely love this mask! Made my skin so smooth and glowy the next day. The heat is quite dry where I live, and this adds so much hydration overnight. Super happy happy I bought this sleeping mask :)"
I’ve been struggling with acne for the first time in my life ever I’m 35 and have tried everything under the sun at this point. I read an article about glass skin and k beauty and deep dived into it. So stoked I did because this stuff works! Buy now!"
Originally got a sample and had to purchase a full size jar. Use it at night following serums leaves my skin soft and hydrated, locking in all my serums. Love the subtle scent too.”
“In the future, if functional cosmetics are developed using this ingredient, it is expected to contribute to an increased industrial demand for balloon flower.”
- Lauren Lee, Host of the Korean Beauty Show podcast
